Laila Peak Climbing Expedition: 23 Day Summit in the Karakoram

Expedition Type

Full Board

Expedition Difficulty

Moderate

Best Time

June to August

Duration

23 Days

Laila Peak Climbing Expedition Overview

Laila Peak (6,096m), located in the Hushe Valley of Baltistan in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, is considered one of the most beautiful and elegant mountains in the Karakoram Range. Famous for its dramatic needle-shaped summit and steep ice and snow faces, Laila Peak offers an exceptional introduction to technical high-altitude climbing and serves as an ideal training peak for mountaineers aspiring to climb higher 7,000m and 8,000m giants. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I & II, Masherbrum, and Nanga Parbat.

With over four decades of experience organizing climbing expeditions in Pakistan, this professionally supported Laila Peak Expedition combines adventure, safety, and cultural immersion. The expedition begins in Islamabad and continues via a spectacular mountain flight to Skardu, followed by a scenic journey through Khaplu and the picturesque Hushe Valley. The approach trek passes through Saicho before reaching Laila Peak Base Camp near the Gondogoro Glacier. Climbers will spend the majority of the expedition acclimatizing and climbing from Base Camp, supported by experienced staff, guides, porters, and a dedicated expedition chef. After the climbing period, the team retraces the route back to Islamabad, concluding a rewarding Karakoram mountaineering experience.

The Laila Peak climbing expedition is widely regarded as a “Holy Grail” for alpine climbers. Often called the most beautiful mountain in the world, Laila Peak (6,096m) is famous for its distinctive spear-like shape and a northwest face that maintains a consistent 45-degree slope for over 1,500 vertical meters.

Located in the heart of the Masherbrum Mountains near the Gondogoro Glacier, the Laila Peak climbing expedition is a serious technical undertaking. Unlike many 6,000m peaks, Laila remains rarely summited due to its steep granite walls and icy Northwest ramp. Our 23-day 2026 itinerary is designed for elite teams, providing high-altitude logistics, expert route-fixing, and the necessary permit support for this restricted-zone masterpiece.

  • Peak Name: Laila Peak (6,096m)
  • Standard Route: Northwest Face
  • Expedition Style: Full-board with 1:1 Technical High-Altitude Support
  • Climbing Window: June – August 2026

Laila Peak Climbing Expedition Highlights

  • The “Needle” of the Karakoram: Conquer one of the world’s most recognizable and aesthetic summits.
  • Technical Northwest Face: Tackle a sustained 45° to 55° snow and ice ramp—a dream for technical alpinists and extreme skiers.
  • Hushe Valley Wilderness: Approach through the remote and spectacular Hushe Valley, passing beneath K6, K7, and Masherbrum.
  • Exclusive Access: Join the select few; Laila Peak has significantly fewer recorded summits than most 8,000m giants.
  • Elite Logistics: Our 23-day Laila Peak climbing expedition features specialized gear, fixed-line management, and satellite weather forecasting.

Laila Peak Climbing Expedition Difficulty and Altitude

How hard is the Laila Peak climbing expedition? Laila Peak is an extreme technical challenge. It is not suitable for beginners and requires advanced ice climbing and rope management skills.

Technical Challenges

The primary challenge is the Northwest Face, which requires hundreds of meters of front-pointing on ice and firm snow. The upper sections often feature thin ice over granite, demanding precise tool placement. The descent is equally technical and typically requires multiple rappels.

Altitude Profile

  • Base Camp: 4,535m
  • Advanced Base Camp: 5,100m
  • High Camp (C1): 5,400m
  • Summit: 6,096m

Laila Peak Climbing Expedition Inclusions/Exclusions

InclusionsExclusions
Domestic flights within Pakistan (20 kg check-in + 7 kg hand carry)International flights, visas & personal insurance
All ground transportation & airport transfersPersonal climbing gear & high-altitude clothing
Hotel stays in Islamabad & Skardu (twin-sharing)Summit / porter bonuses & rescue deposits (if applicable)
Government climbing permits & liaison officer feesEmergency helicopter evacuation & medical rescue
Expedition camping (Base Camp & high camps) with full logisticsExcess baggage & additional hotel nights
All meals during expedition (including high-altitude rations)Meals not mentioned in itinerary
Licensed mountain guide, cook, support staff & high-altitude portersTips & gratuities
Fixed ropes on normal routes (where applicable)Personal expenses & gear rental
CKNP waste management fee & secure baggage storageEarly departure or expedition withdrawal costs
Satellite phone (emergency use) & basic medical kitForce majeure expenses (weather, route changes, delays)

 

Tour Plan

Day 1 Arrival in Islamabad
  • Arrival at Islamabad International Airport
  • Meet and greet by our representative
  • Transfer to group hotel and rest
  • Evening expedition briefing and welcome dinner
Day 2 Flight to Skardu
  • Scenic mountain flight over the Himalayas and Karakoram
  • Views of Nanga Parbat, K2, and surrounding peaks (weather permitting)
  • Transfer to hotel and free afternoon to explore Skardu Bazaar
Day 3 Sightseeing & Preparation Day in Skardu
  • Expedition briefing and paperwork
  • Meeting with guide, porters, and support staff
  • Optional visit to Kharpocho Fort and local villages
  • Final gear checks and preparation
Day 4 Drive to Hushe
  • Scenic jeep drive via Khaplu Valley
  • Cross Indus and Shyok rivers
  • Arrival at traditional Balti village of Hushe
  • First night of camping beneath Masherbrum
Day 5 Trek to Saicho
  • Begin trekking portion of the expedition
  • Easy walk with views of Masherbrum Peak
  • Overnight camping at Saicho
Day 6 Trek to Laila Peak Base Camp
  • Trek alongside the Gondogoro Glacier
  • Arrival at Base Camp by early afternoon
  • Set up camp with panoramic mountain views
Days 7–17 Acclimatization & Climbing Period
  • Progressive acclimatization rotations
  • Establishment of advanced camps as required
  • Summit attempts depending on weather and conditions
  • Full Base Camp support with guide, staff, and chef
Day 18 Trek Back to Saicho
  • Descend from Base Camp
  • Clean-up and packing of expedition gear
  • Overnight camping
Day 19 Trek Back to Hushe
  • Final trekking day
  • Celebration with porters and staff
  • Overnight camping
Day 20 Drive Back to Skardu via Khaplu
  • Optional sightseeing at Khaplu Fort and Chaqchan Mosque
  • Return to Skardu and hotel stay
  • Hot shower and rest after trekking
Day 21 Fly Back to Islamabad
  • Morning flight to Islamabad (weather permitting)
  • Transfer to hotel
  • Free afternoon and farewell dinner
Day 22 Contingency Day in Islamabad
  • Reserved for flight delays or weather issues
  • Optional city sightseeing and shopping
Day 23 Departure Day
  • Transfer to Islamabad International Airport
  • End of Laila Peak Expedition (6,096m)

1 review for Laila Peak Climbing Expedition: 23 Day Summit in the Karakoram

  1. Hannah Mitchell

    Challenging yet stunning! The climb and the views of the surrounding glaciers were incredible.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Laila Peak climbing expedition cost for 2026?

The Laila Peak expedition price starts at $2,300 USD for a full-service 23-day package. Due to its location in a restricted zone, this includes the mandatory trekking permit, government royalty fees, and professional licensed guides.

What is the best time for a Laila Peak expedition?

The best time to climb Laila Peak is June and July. This window typically offers the best snow-to-ice ratio on the face. Late-season attempts can encounter bare blue ice, which significantly increases the technical difficulty.

Is Laila Peak a "trekking peak" or a "climbing peak"?

Laila Peak is strictly a technical climbing peak. In Pakistan, “trekking peaks” are generally those under 6,000m with non-technical routes. Because Laila Peak is in a restricted zone (near the Gondogoro Glacier) and requires technical rope work and ice climbing, you must have a formal mountaineering permit and a licensed guide.

What is the "Success Rate" for Laila Peak?

The success rate is lower than other 6,000m peaks (approx. 30-40%) primarily due to its technicality and the precision required in weather windows. The summit “spear” is very narrow, and high winds can often turn teams back just 100 meters from the top.

Why book with Karakoram Treks?

Laila Peak requires a team that understands the nuances of the Hushe Valley. We provide veteran technical guides who have been involved in previous Laila attempts and successful summits, ensuring the highest safety standards.